Wave height forecast
Increased sea activities and shoreline expansion have formulated critcal requirement for increased understanding of sea-state condition in nearshore areas. A significant instrument to deliver this information is wave modelling.
The most highly developed wave model is definitely the WAM model (ocean wave model), that has established great efficiency for deep water and intermediate-depth water. On the other hand, in coast areas, a fine resolution (in geographic area) is needed to take into account the complexity of underwater topography and also for the complex physical systems included.
A wave model called SWAN (Simulation of Waves in Nearshore areas) has been developed for wave measurements in coastal zones (shallow water with surrounding currents).