Waves are created by wind wasting over the water’s surface. Height depends on wind velocity, fetch size and period of time the wind produces continually within the fetch. ‘Fetch’ is definitely the distance the wind hits over water with the exact same speed and path.
Height of the wave is definitely the length measured with the trough towards the top of the wave. Wave size is a length between subsequent crests or troughs. Significant wave height Hs is considered an average elevation within the highest 1/3 waves within a wave range. The highest specific wave in the wave range (Hmax) is often twice greater than the Hs.